Lange Nacht der Wissenschaften – Vortrag und Verkostung

Josef Matzerath on

4. Juli 2014, 19: 00 Uhr Schloss Pillnitz – Wasserpalais (Roter Saal)

Königlich tafeln – Die kulinarische Ästhetik des Dresdner Hofes um 1700 und 1900

Aß August der Starke bei der Hochzeitsfeier seines Sohnes vor den Augen des Dresdner Hofes mit Messer und Gabel? Frankreichs Sonnenkönig, Ludwig XIV. speiste zeitgleich jedenfalls noch ohne Besteck. Wie an anderen Höfen stand auch in Dresden kein Weinglas auf der Festtafel. Wein wurde den Tafelnden vom Personal nur dann in einem Glas angereicht, wenn danach verlangt wurde. – Was speisten die Wettiner bei höfischen Festen und wie waren ihre Tafeln gedeckt?

Anhand eines Stichs von 1719 und eines Fotos von 1891 werden Hochzeitstafeln verglichen um die Veränderungen eines Speiserituals aufzuzeigen. Zu Zeiten August des Starken wurden Speisen mit vielen exotischen und damals teuren gewürzen zubereitet. Man unterschied bei den Gängen nicht nach süße und pikante Speisen. An Bratensaucen gab man auch Zucker und in Süßspeisen rührte man Gewürze. Einen Dessertgang kannte man noch nicht. Auf der Tafel standen Schüsseln, aus denen sich auch die königliche Familie selbst nach Gusto bediente.

Wie die Speisesitten änderten sich auch das Tafelgedeck und die Kochweise der Speisen bis 1900 grundlegend. Es dominierte nun der Eigengeschmack der zentralen Zutat eines Gerichts, die Gänge waren klar in Vorspeisen, Hauptgang und Dessert unterschieden. Statt in Schüsseln servierte die Hofküche jetzt auf Tellern eine festgelegte Kombination von Speisen. Zu jedem Gang stand ein besonderes Glas an jedem Gedeck, um unterschiedliche Weine aromatisch passend zum jeweiligen Gericht zu reichen. Messer, Gabeln und Löffel lagen für jeden Gang einzeln bereit.

Um die Veränderungen aus der Sicht der Ernährungsgeschichte, des Designs und der Kochkunst zu erfassen, präsentieren der Historiker Professor Dr. Josef Matzerath (TU Dresden), die Mitarbeiterinnen des unstgewerbemuseums Pillnitz Christiane Ernek und Kerstin Stöver sowie der Küchenmeister und Sommelier Volkhard Nebrich gemeinsam die Perspektiven ihres jeweiligen Faches auf die Festtafeln des Dresdner Hofes.

Kulinarische Genussproben aus der Küche des letzten sächsischen Königs, zubereitet von Volkhard Nebrich:

Sächsischer Pudding (nach einem Rezept des Dresdner Hofkochs Hans Ernst Lehmann überliefert von Max Ernst Pötzsch: Vollständige Herrschaftsküche des Kronprinzen von Sachsen, Dresden 1898/99, publiziert Ostfildern 2013)

Kaffeeeis mit gekühlter Crème bavaroise (nach einem Rezept des Dresdner Hofkochs Friedrich  Carl Gustav Baumann überliefert von Max Ernst Pötzsch: Vollständige Herrschaftsküche des Kronprinzen von Sachsen, Dresden 1898/99, publiziert Ostfildern 2013)

Weitere Infomationen:

Professor Dr. Josef Matzerath
Technische Universität Dresden
Philosophische Fakultät
Institut für Geschichte
01062 Dresden

Tel.: 0351 / 848 87 82
E-mail: Josef.Matzerath@TU-Dresden.de

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