Kochen wie bei Königs – Sachsens kulinarisches Erbe

Von Hofküchen und Arme-Leute-Speisen
Von Susanne Balthasar

Schon um 1900 galt Dresden als ein Zentrum der Esskultur. Damals schrieb der Hofkoch von Friedrich August von Sachsen 824 Rezepte nieder. Die lange verschollenen Schriften sind erst vor Kurzem wieder aufgetaucht – und wurden nun in einer Versuchsküche erforscht.

Weiß: „Man kennt im internationalen Kreise das Leipziger Allerlei, aber der Sachse ist leider nicht dafür bekannt, dass er im heimischen Kreise die große Küche zelebriert.“

… Kalter Hund, Pulsitzer Pfefferkuchen, Dresdner Eierschecke …

Josef Matzerath: „Wir haben das untersucht anhand von über 300 Kochbüchern. Es gibt den Dresdner Stollen, Leipziger Allerlei, Vogtländische Klösse, und all sowas gibt’s. Es gibt pikante Gerichte, aber die meisten Gerichte, die sächsisch konnotiert sind, sind Süßspeisen.“

… Klitscher. Die Klitscher, auch Ardäppelklitscher, sind ein Kartoffelgericht aus dem Erzgebirge.

Weiß: „Also die einzigen zwei regionalen Speisen, die ich im Kopf hatte, waren Quarkkeulchen und Leipziger Allerlei. Und fragen Sie den allgemeinen Sachsen, der wird Ihnen nicht mehr sagen. Ich weiß auch nicht, warum hier die Kultur der Essenspflege ein bisschen unter gegangen ist.“ …

(Aufmacher: SLUB/Deutsche Fotothek, Oskar Auraß)

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