Projektküche

Josef Matzerath on

Für die exquisite Küche, die um 1900 in Dresden gekocht wurde, gibt es eine zentrale Quelle: die Rezeptsammlung des Ernst Max Pötzsch. Sie entstand als Sammlung von handschriftlichen Notizen in den Jahre 1898/99 in der Küche des späteren sächsischen Königs Friedrich August III. Pötzsch selbst bezeichnete diese Kochanweisungen als „Vollständige Herrschaftsküche des Kronprinzen v[on] Sachsen“.

Pötzsch hat die Rezepte allerdings nur für seine eigene Arbeit notiert. Sie sind daher nur von einem professionellen Koch zu entschlüsseln. Diese Aufgabe hat im Rahmen des Projektes „Kulinarische Tradition – 500 Jahre exquisite Kochkunst in Sachsen“ der Küchenmeister und Sommelier Volkhard Nebrich übernommen, dem die Gastronomen des Leipziger Restaurants „Auerbachs Keller“, Christine und Bernhard Rothenberger, dazu die Versuchsküche ihres Restaurants zur Verfügung gestellt haben.

Volkhard Nebrich kocht sämtliche Rezepte der „Vollständige Herrschaftsküche des Kronprinzen v[on] Sachsen“ nach, um deren kulinarische Logik zu verstehen, den spezifischen Geschmack der sächsischen Spitzenküche um 1900 zu erkunden und um die landestypischen Spezifika dieser Kochkunst festzuhalten. Die Traditionen der feinen Küche in Sachsen und die Herkunft und Qualität ihrer regionalen Zutaten soll sichtbar gemacht werden.

Darüber hinaus dokumentiert Nebrich seine Erkenntnisse als Kochanweisungen, er beschreibt die erforderliche Qualität der Zutaten und den Geschmack der Gerichte. Nebrichs Erforschung des Geschmacksbildes erfolgt in Kooperation mit ernährungsgeschichtlichen Studien am Institut für Geschichte der TU Dresden (Prof. Dr. Josef Matzerath). Die kulinarische Ästhetik der Dresdner Hofküche wollte den Eigengeschmack der Produkte hervorheben. Um das beste Ergebnis zu erreichen, empfiehlt es sich weithin mit regionalen und handwerklich hergestellten Zutaten zu arbeiten. Deshalb sprechen Matzerath/Nebrich von einer Küche der Zutaten oder kurz von einer „Produktküche“.

Von den bereits rekonstruierten Rezepten sind als erster Band erschienen:

Josef Matzerath/Volkhard Nebrich
Produktküche
Europäische Kochkunst aus der feinen Küche des Dresdner Hofes
Reihe: Land kulinarischer Tradition. Ernährungsgeschichte in Sachsen. Reihe A – Tradition für die Zukunft 2/I
Ostfildern 2013

Josef Matzerath/Volkhard Nebrich unter Mitarbeit von Paul Gildemeister, Christine Giersch und Markus Paschel
Produktküche – Süßspeisen, Gebäck und Getränke
Europäische Kochkunst aus der feinen Küche des Dresdner Hofes (Land kulinarischer Tradition. Ernährungsgeschichte in Sachsen. Reihe A – Tradition für die Zukunft 2/II)
Ostfildern 2016

Allgemein

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