Presseberichte März 2014

Aus Kunstschätze, Naturlerlebnisse und Genuss. Tour de Saxe.

Viel mehr als Kartoffelsuppe und Eierschecke

Das kulinarische Sachsen verzückte einst den Adel und begeistert auch Feinschmecker von heute.

Zanderschnitte mit Kräutern, Entenbrust in Malagasauce und Wachtelcroustaden – solche Delikatessen haben in Sachsen Tradition. Vor mehr als hundert Jahren freilich nur am sächsischen kurfürstlichen Königshof, heute hingegen in immer mehr Feinschmecker-Restaurants in Dresden, Leipzig und in kleineren sächsischen Orten. „Sachsen hat eine Tradition der feinen Küche und gehobenen Tafelkultur, deren Entwicklung in den wichtigsten Etappen bis ins 16. Jahrhundert rekonstruierbar ist“, sagt Professor Josef Matzerath vom Institut für Geschichte der TU Dresden. Er selbst hat sich in ein relativ simples Rezept für Sächsischen Pudding verliebt:

 

„Das kommt auf Partys immer gut an.“ Aber natürlich wurde am Hof auch Wert auf besondere, exklusive Zutaten gelegt: Hummer und Hahnenkamm und Kalbsbries (eine von Gourmets wegen ihrer Zartheit geschätzte Innerei) gehörten auf die damaligen Speisekarten des Adels wie heute Kartoffeln in die Kantine.

 

Der kulinarische Zeit-Kreis schließt sich wunderbar im Buch „Hofmenüs für heute – Rezepte vom Dresdner Hof„. Zubereitet haben diese Menüs sächsische Spitzenköche und -patissiers, darunter zum Beispiel Mario Pattis, der den ersten Michelinstern Sachsen erkochte, oder der ebenfalls mit einem Michelinstern ausgezeichnete André Mühlfriedel (Ratskeller Dohna). Aus den Original-Rezept-Vorlagen des letzten Hofkochs Max Pötzsch aus der Zeit um 1900 haben die Spitzenköche Kunstwerke für Gaumen und Auge gezaubert, die auch den Gourmet von heute überzeugen. So probierte sich Feinschmecker-Papst Wolfram Siebeck durch die modernen Hofmenüs und lässt die Leser in amüsant und kurzweilig geschriebenen Berichteten an seinen Geschmackserfahrungen teilhaben. Dabei durften die Köche und Patissiers durchaus die Rezepte variieren, mit ihrem eigenen Stil versehen. Mitunter haben sie aber auch „dessen Vorzüglichkeit erkannt und darauf verzichtet, um der Originalität willen größere Änderungen vorzunehmen“, wie Wolfram Siebeck zum Beispiel beim „Krebsragout in Casserolen“ von Mario Pattis lobend betont.

 

Das Projekt zeigt nicht nur, dass Sachsen Küche schon seit Langem mehr bietet als Eierschecke und Kartoffelsuppe. Auch für die Meister am Herd gab es einige Aha-Effekte. „Es ist beeindruckend, welche Ergebnisse mit den damals verfügbaren Zutaten möglich waren“, sagt Olaf Kranz, Küchenchef im Restaurant Schmidts in Hellerau. „Zum Beispiel Süßspeisen ohne Gelatine herzustellen, das war schon eine Herausforderung.“ Nun, die Menüs von heute nachzukochen, dürfte selbst ambitionierte Hobbyköche ebenfalls schwer fordern. Aber das ist auch gar nicht das Hauptanliegen des Buches. Vielmehr zeigt es die Symbiose von Tradition und Moderne in der Sächsischen Küche und macht vor allem eines: Lust auf eine kulinarische Reise durch den Freistaat. Guten Appetit!

Iris Hellmann

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