Presseberichte Januar 2014

https://www.pexels.com/de-de/foto/anzeigen-arbeit-bilden-buro-518543/

Aus der Bauernzeitung, 51./52. Woche 2013, S. 6:

Schon früher erste Wahl

Nicht erst seit heute ist Regionalität von Lebensmitteln ein Qualitätsmerkmal. Ein vom Freistaat gefördertes Projekt untersuchte höfische Ernährungsgewohnheiten ums Jahr 1900 – und brachte auch Lehrreiches für die Gegenwart ans Licht.

 

Dass er ein waschechter Sachse war, lässt sich nicht überlesen. In den Aufzeichnungen, die Ernst Max Pötzsch der Nachwelt hinterließ, findet man Worte wie „Pollenda“ (Polenta), „Deltower Rübchen“ (Teltower Rübchen) oder „Düte“ (Tüte). „Dialektal eingefärbter Sprachgebrauch“ sei in die Rezeptsammlung des jungen Kochs eingeflossen, meint Prof. Dr. Josef Matzerath, Historiker an der TU Dresden und Mitglied des Vereins Ernährungsgeschichte in Sachsen. Was nicht darüber hinwegtäuschen darf, dass Pötzschs Aufzeichnungen allerfeinste Kochkunst auf europäischem Niveau überliefern. Denn im Jahr 1898 hatte der gerade zwanzigjährige Koch in der Hofküche des sächsischen Kronprinzen Friedrich August zu arbeiten begonnen. Alles, was ihm dort an Rezepten und Menüaufstellungen begegnete, schrieb er in eine Kladde. Das 388 Seiten starke Notizbuch gelangte 2006 in den Besitz der Landesbibliothek Sachsen und eröffnete ungeahnte Einblicke in die Hofküche eines europäischen Herrscherhauses jener Zeit. „Wir sind auf eine Goldgrube gestoßen“ bringt es Josef Matzerath auf den Punkt. Eine der wichtigsten Erkenntnisse, die der Historiker dem handgeschriebenen Büchlein entnahm: Die Herrschaftsküche ums Jahr 1900 war – trotz vieler französischer, englischer und italienischer Bezeichnungen – eine durchweg regionale Küche.

Impuls für den Absatz

Was wiederum die Aufarbeitung des Zeitdokuments aus Sicht des sächsischen Agrarministeriums interessant machte, das mit dem Projekt „Ernährungsgeschichte in Sachsen• noch bis Ende kommenden Jahres die Erforschung der kulinarischen Geschichte des Freistaates fördert und in diesem Zusammenhang auch die Herausgabe von bislang vier Büchern über sächsische Hofmenüs und -tafelkultur unterstützte. Er sehe Erfolg versprechende Anknüpfungspunkte, um auf diesem Wege auch den Absatz heimischer Erzeuger zu verbessern, begründet Minister Frank Kupfer diesen Schritt. Um den Schnittpunkt zwischen höfischer Ernährungsgeschichte, Tourismus und Absatzförderung für regionale Erzeuger bekannter zu machen, hatte er kürzlich Vertreter aus Politik, Ernährungswirtschaft und Medien ins Dresdener Elements DELI & Restaurant geladen, wo dessen Inhaber und Koch Stephan Mießner Rezepte aus Pötzschs Sammlung für die Gegenwart interpretierte. Mießner ist einer jener 15 sächsischen Köche, deren Variationen höfisch-sächsischer Menüs den Gastronomiekritiker Wolfram Siebeck davon überzeugten, sein „kulinarisches Betretungsverbot“ für den Freistaat Sachsen zurückzunehmen. Dass der in Geschmacksfragen nicht eben kompromissbereite Siebeck seine Meinung änderte und sich im Rahmen des Ernährungsgeschichte-Projektes als Mitherausgeber des Rezeptbandes „Hofmenüs für heute“ betätigte, hat gute Gründe, wie Historiker Matzerath meint. „Die Art dieser Küche hat eine eigene Ästhetik. Der Eigengeschmack des Produktes steht im Mittelpunkt“, erklärt er. Dies bedinge jedoch, dass nur beste Produkte Verwendung finden: „Sie müssen frisch sein, also aus der Region stammen und saisonal verfügbar sein.“

Eine Aussage, die Volkhard Nebrich nur bestätigen kann. Der Küchenmeister und Unternehmensberater für Hotellerie und Gastronomie hat die Rezeptkladde Ernst Max Pötzschs genauestens analysiert, in der Küche von „Auerbachs Keller“ in Leipzig ausprobiert und in vom Normalverbraucher lesbare Rezepte umgeschrieben. “Es ist eine ganz einfache Küche -mit einem unglaublichen Maß an Geschmack“ schwärmt der Experte. Sehr fleischbetont, komme die „Produktküche“, wie Nebrich sie nennt, mit wenig Salz und Gewürzen aus. Doch der entscheidende Punkt sei es, saisonale Zutaten aus der eigenen Region zu verwenden.

Noch fehlt Bindeglied

Diesen Qualitätsanspruch sähe der Küchenmeister gern als das Leitbild der modernen Gastronomie. „Wir brauchen eine regionale Ess- und Trinkkultur, die gefördert und erhalten werden muss“, fordert er. „Saisonal und regional einkaufen – da müssen wir Gastronomen hin. Aber wir können uns nicht um die Zulieferer kümmern!“ Nebrich ist überzeugt: „Sachsen hat alles, was Gastronomen und Hoteliers brauchen.“ Doch es bedürfe dringend eines Portals, eines Distributionsnetzes für regionale Produkte, das es ermögliche, Ware zu finden, ohne lange zu suchen. Letztlich aber hänge alles vom Wollen des Gastronomen ab, der sich auf Regionalität einlassen müsse. Worauf auch mit der aus Pötzschs Rezeptkladde entwickelten „Produktküche“ hingewirkt werden könnte. Sie soll zum Lehrbuch für sächsische Köche werden, sagt Georg W. Schenk, Geschäftsführer der Dresdner Spezialitätenbrennerei Augustus Rex und Mitglied des Vereins Ernährungsgeschichte in Sachsen. Er ist sich sicher: „Sachsen schreibt gerade kulinarisch Geschichte.“ Und schreibt zudem auch Geschichte um. „Wir haben lange geglaubt, die Hochküche habe ihren Ursprung allein in Frankreich“, erklärt Josef Marzerath. Doch vieles von dem, was der französische Meisterkoch Auguste Escoffier im Jahr 1903 in seinem Standardwerk „Guide Culinaire“ veröffentlichte, habe der Sachse Ernst Max Pötzsch bereits einige Jahre zuvor handschriftlich in seine Rezeptkladde notiert.

Projekt Ernährungsgeschichte

Das vom Ministerium für Umwelt und Landwirtschaft (SMUL) geförderte Projekt des Vereins Ernährungsgeschichte in Sachsen e. V. arbeitet die historische sächsische Küche des 19. Jahrhunderts wissenschaftlich auf. Ziel war es, die Unterschutzstellung von Erzeugnissen auf Grundlage geografischer Angaben oder Ursprungsbezeichnungen vorzubereiten. Es zeigte sich jedoch, dass für eine solche Unterschutzstellung für die meisten Rezepte die notwendigen Voraussetzungen fehlen. Dennoch erhofft sich das SMUL von den Recherchen Impulse für den Absatz regionaler Produkte und für das touristische Image des Freistaates. Bis jetzt sind die Ergebnisse über den Verlag Jan Thorbecke in vier Publikationen veröffentlicht worden: „Hofmenüs für heute“ (Schenk/Matzerath/Siebeck), „Produktküche“ (Nebrich), „Vollständige Herrschaftsküche des Kronprinzen von Sachsen“ (Matzerath) und „Tafelkultur -Dresden um 1900“ (Matzerath/Niering).

Karsten Bär

Aus der Lausitzer Rundschau:

Essensgenuss mit sächsischem Dialekt

Freistaat will kulinarische Geschichte schreiben und gräbt alte Traditionen des Dresdner Hofes wieder aus

Als der Gourmet-Papst Wolfram Siebeck den Osten Deutschlands einst zur kulinarischen No-GoArea erklärte, lag das den Sachsen schwer im Magen. Inzwischen ist Siebeck (85) ein wenig milder und sogar Mitautor eines Buches über sächsische Kochkünste.

 

Von Jörg Schurig

 

Dresden. Es gibt typisch sächsische Gerichte wie den Sauerbraten, den man eher zur Hausmannskost als zur gehobenen Küche rechnet. Dabei wussten schon die Kurfürsten des Landes früher nobel zu tafeln. Spätestens seit dem ersten Drittel des 19. Jahrhunderts waren Rezepte aus Sachsen auch überregional in aller Munde. 1830 erschien eine zweibändige Ausgabe des Kochbuchs „Der Dresdner Koch“ von Johann Friedrich Baumann. In den folgenden Jahrzehnten verfeinerten die Sachsen ihre Kochkünste.

,.Pudding Saxon“ eroberte Paris

„So wie die feine Küche des Dresdner Hofes Einflüsse aus Europa seit Jahrhunderten aufgenommen hatte, wirkte sie auch am Endes des Kaiserreiches noch über die Grenzen Sachsens hinaus“, berichtet der Historiker Josef Matzerath. Deshalb lasse sich mit Sachsens Kochtradition zugleich auch eine deutsche Küche entdecken, die deutschland- und europaweit anerkannt war. Matzerath verweist auf den französischen Meisterkoch Auguste Escoffier, der 1903 den .,Pudding Saxon“ in seinen berühmten „Guide Culinaire“ übernahm. Tatsächlich hatte der Aufstieg der Sachsen in den Koch-Olymp auch etwas mit veränderten Geschmackstrends zu tun. Im Barock waren viele Speisen meist exotisch gewürzt. „Da war so viel Muskat drin, dass man sich wundert, wie die das überhaupt überlebt haben“, sagt Matzerath. Im 19. Jahrhundert dagegen sollte ein Kohlgericht wieder nach Kohl schmecken und nicht mit Gewürzen zugedeckt werden. Mit der Industrialisierung der Nahrungsmittelproduktion suchten Köche zudem verstärkt nach regionalen und saisonalen Produkten hoher Qualität. „Aus einem schlechten Schwein lässt sich kein gutes Schnitzel machen“, nennt Matzerath eine Weisheit der Zunft. Damals hätten die Menschen zudem keine Angst vor Kalorien gehabt als vielmehr vor Hunger. Bei den Zutaten wurde demnach reichlich „Butter bei die Fische“ gegeben statt Magerkost gepflegt. Die letzten Hungersnöte aus der ersten Hälfte des 19. Jahrhunderts waren noch nicht vergessen. Im Kaiserreich herrschte im Vergleich dazu Überfluss. Das spiegelte sich auch in der Kreativität der Spitzenköche wider. Davon kündet auch eine Rezeptsammlung, die Ernst Max Pötzsch als Dresdner Hofkoch 1898 und 1899 anlegte. Pötzsch kochte damals für den Prinzen Friedrich August von Sachsen. Die Sammlung ist nun unter dem Titel „Vollständige Herrschaftsküche des Kronprinzen von Sachsen“ unlängst veröffentlicht worden.

 

Dabei hat Pötzsch natürlich nicht nur im eigenen Saft gekocht. Von den 824 notierten Rezepten tragen nur 438 rein deutsche Namen. Die Anleitung für die .,Seezunge à l’Avondale“ stammt beispielsweise aus einem Hotel in Großbritannien. Friedrich August von Sachsen bevorzugte ein doppeltes Frühstück. Das erste fiel mit Kaffee, Tee, Brötchen, Zwieback, Butter und manchmal Eiern noch relativ spartanisch aus. Zum zweite!‘ Frühstück aß der Prinz und spätere König gern Schnitzel, Kotelett, Backhuhn oder Irish-Stew. Beim Diner hielt er sich an ein in diesen Kreisen damals übliche Menüfolge: Suppe, Vorspeise, Fleischgang mit Gemüse, Zwischengericht, Brat mit Salat und Kompott, Süßspeise, Käse und Dessert. Ein warmes Abendessen mit Fleisch und Gemüse rundete den Tag kulinarisch ab.

 

Um Liebhaber der gehobenen Küche auf den Geschmack zu bringen, haben Siebeck, Matzerath und Mitautor Georg W. Schenk ein weiteres Kochbuch aufgelegt: „Hofmenüs für heute“. 15 Köche und Konditoren interpretieren darin sächsische Gourmetküche – von der legierten Kaninchensuppe mit Steinpilzen bis zum Consomme vom Weiderind mit Landschinken und Gemüse. Schenk berichtet stolz, wie er im Sommer 2012 mit Siebeck zwei Wochen auf einem Gourmet-Trip durch Sachsen reiste und der Meister schon nach kurzer Zeit auftaute.

Regional und saisonal

„Sachsen schreibt momentan Geschichte“, sagt Schenk und verweist auf eine weitere Publikation, die unter dem Titel „Produktküche“ eine Tradition sächsischer Hofküche aufnimmt: die Verwendung regionaler und saisonaler Produkte, wie es heute in der Gourmetküche üblich ist. Schon Pötzsch hatte in seiner Rezeptsammlung verzeichnet, welche Nahrungsmittel in welcher Jahreszeit in bester Qualität zu bekommen sind. Der Restaurant-Berater Volkhard Nebrich hat sächsische Hofküche durchgetestet. Sein Fazit ist knapp: „Schmeckt klasse, einfach irre.“

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